After switching from Cone 10 reduction to cone 6 oxidation firing, I came to realize that cone 6 oxidation firing is a whole new realm in the ceramic world to explore. I feel it's foolish to reproduce cone 10 glaze quality in cone 6 glazes.
Currently I just modify found cone 6 glaze recipes; mostly added more flux or overlap two glazes to make them slightly “runny”. A clean 45 degree cut on the foot rim can prevent the glaze from running to kiln shelf.
creamy rust over orange street (from Mastering cone 6 glaze)
floating blue over mystery blue/ green
floating blue over very black
mystery blue/ green over floating blue
no tin white
mystery blue green
They are all lovely, but I love that creamy rust over orange street. You are right about overlapping. When I first switched to cone 6 I was afraid I'd be disappointed, but with experimentation one can achieve a lot of variety at that temperature.
ReplyDeleteI will run some glaze testing next week and then post them later.
ReplyDeleteWhat is your temperature for your glazes?
ReplyDeleteI go to 2185-2190.
Love the teapots- this is s good time to make them.
Powen, you have a magic touch with glazes that is for sure!! Love these teapots!
ReplyDeleteI was taught to put 4 to 5 test tiles in every glaze firing, and I have learned well from that!!
ReplyDeleteMeredith, I fired in electric kiln with cone 6 slow glaze firng program and hold 20 minutes in the end. I didn't pay attention to what temperature it reached.
ReplyDeleteAccoeding to Orton cones, It was cone 6 down and cone 7 slightly bend.
If you fire in your new electric kiln, you better do a cone off set in your controller. Please see my post on Dec. 6, 2009 about the cone offset info.
Currently, I off set my controller 35 degree lower than the actual TC reading.
Nice teapots! Keep up the good work. Hope to see you again at the greensboro farmers market show. What a pleasant little show.
ReplyDeleteThanks. I will be in that show again this Spring. See you soon.
ReplyDeleteI have given you an award - if you want it.
ReplyDeletesave the award and post it to your blog.
Then tell us 7 things about yourself we might not know on your blog.
Then pass the award on to 15 more or less bloggers you read.
are you in?
I like it!! I am in.
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeletereally beautiful work!
I love the red in creamy rust over orange street. You said the recipe comes from the book Mastering cone 6 glaze but I can't find it ( I have the book)Would you share the recipe with us?
Your work is very beautiful, and I hope to work with clay as well as you someday! :)
ReplyDeletecan you please give the recipes for floating blue and mystery blue/ green? that teapot looks amazing!
ReplyDeleteHi Alex, unfortunately, I don't have the recipes. I just use what were available from a community class where I teach.
DeleteWhat is "Mystery Blue Green"?
ReplyDeleteIt looks like a Barium or Strontium Blue, especially on the pot where it is the top glaze.
We use an" Shuji Ikeda Blue Rust" published in "Ceramic Art: Innovative Techniques"
http://books.google.com/books?id=VrUns81O8JYC&pg=PA31&lpg=PA31&dq=shuji+ikeda+blue+rust&source=bl&ots=WViRJZ7afl&sig=UzaKjmufZjqMhvCrYqqSbnSt6Cg&hl=en&sa=X&ei=PotWUbahJsnRiAKU14DADA&ved=0CEQQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=shuji%20ikeda%20blue%20rust&f=false
In our kiln, firing Ikeda Blue Rust to ^6 with a slow-cool of 50F/hour between 1,800F and 1,500F results in either green or blue matte, depending on how thick the coat of glaze is.
http://www.siliconinvestor.com//public/4188495_a980cc9792bb8e1c708661eea31b14b0.jpg